.theguardian - 23 hours ago

A new immersive dining experience promises to unleash anarchy in Mayfair. But is it just revolting?Punk Royale, from Stockholm, has landed in London promising, or rather threatening, that their rowdy, immersive, 20-course fine-dining experience will destroy all puny British perceptions of posh food. It’s a huge claim from these Swedish punks. Indeed, nearly 50 years after the UK invented punk, with the Sex Pistols effing and jeffing on live TV and provoking a national meltdown, here we have some folk with mullets and Roxette CDs slopping “bumps” of caviar on to my hand shortly after beckoning me into a shoddily decorated, fusty-smelling dining room in Mayfair. It’s all a bit student house and needs a good visit from Mr Sheen. That bump, one supposes, is a playful twist on taking cocaine at a grotty afterparty. However, none of the jokes at Punk Royale is really playful: rather, they’re mostly big, clumsy sledgehammer thwacks. Such as when, for example, they turn off the lights, serve some substandard remoulade, and instruct you to lick it off the plate, while blasting Khia’s My Neck, My Back again and again as your soul dies. I’ve heard more whimsical humour at a Roy Chubby Brown gig.That caviar bump, by the way, came with a shot of tomato water that complemented it nicely. All the drinks afterwards on the non-alcoholic wine flight, however, were thick, soupy, funky and vegetal. Continue reading...

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